A Tale that needs Recreating- Mochibharat Embroidery

Mochibharat is a synonym for leather embroidery. This style of embroidery is common in Gujarat and Rajasthan.

Mochibharat is developed to ornament leather objects and is mostly created on shoes, animal sandals, and trapping. Gold and silver zari is used to accessorize the items like leather belts, bags, and wallets.

History

The origin of the mochibharat is believed to be outside the borders of modern India. Few of the mochi community migrate from Sindh, today in Pakistan in the 14th century Settling in Halvad, in the Surendranagar district of Gujarat, and midway between Bhuj and Ahmedabad before migrating further to kutch and Rajasthan. They learn the art of leather in Sindh.

The other source state that the mochis are originally from Gujarati and Sindhi taught them here. Yet another version tells this embroiderer secretly learning the art by spying on visiting Sindhi Craftsman. In all of this, the origin of the mochi Bharat is unclear.

 Process

The artisan uses the ari, an adaption of the cobbler's awl to execute the embroidery. The ari has a slash marked just above it’s point to form a hook that looks like a crochet needle. The hook pierces the material and loop embroidery of the thread to from a chain stitch, which is used for the outline form a back stitch at the backside of the material.

The motifs are filled up with satin and herringbone stitches. Silk floss and cotton threads are used sometime in the mochibharat. The mirror image is embroidered on either side when done on a juti.

Rajasthan mochi bharat

 There are two types of religious embroideries in Rajasthan, the pichval and Jain embroidery in mochibharat. 

Pichval style narrates a legend of lord Krishna and his life. Bright-colored cotton, satin, or velvet, is used to alter clothes with changing seasons velvet and satin in winter and cotton in summer. Silk and cotton threads are used for embroidery. The design work on pichvai select and depict events from Rasmandala, Krishna Leela, Gokulavana, and Srinathji.

The other style of embroidery reflects the ideology of Jainism. The mandala is also embroidered as it symbolizes jain beliefs and concepts. Representing the lord Mahavira as the center of the universe, surrounded by God and Goddesses in heaven. Pail and Jaipur are renowned centers of Jain embroidery.

Gujarat Mochibharat

The Shoemaker community from Gujarat Kutch and their craft have been worth for centuries as one of India’s finest textiles. It is also known as Aari work in Gujarat. This embroidery includes the items such as Hawking gloves, Sleeping mats, shoes, and much more.

  Soon after the entry of the East India Company, the embroidery begins on the clothes. The quilts embroidered with mochi Bharat appear in the company’s London auction and it is high in demand.

From the 15th century to the 19th century the art is mentioned by many visitors like the Portuguese Duarte Barbosa in 1518 and Dutch Jan Huyghen Van Linschoten in 1585. This incredible art is on display and listed in the major export items of the Britishers.

The British historian L.F.Rushbrook Williams saw them in the first half of the 20th century as he describes the Hira Mahal as “paneled high” with exquisite Kutchi embroidery.

Present day scenario

 before the 2001 earthquake, mochi street had 30 to 40 mochi families residing there but Presently only four are left.

There is decreasing practice of the craft and there can be multiple reasons behind it, such as a lack of traffic, the Popularity of machine work and many others. Mostly, new generation has given up the practice while others outside the community started practicing. 

the influence of western culture had a considerable impact on traditional craft.

it is require to create a balance between adapting modern times while preserving the heritage. it's on us that our artistic heritage is not erased.

It is an art which need to recreate with a modern touch but preserving the ancient feel.

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