The Story of Mountain Embroideryed shawl - kapdaganda shawl

Kapdaganda aka Dongaria shawls is the rich heritage of Dongaria kondh a particularly susceptible tribal group of the Niyamgiri hill range in eastern Odisha. The name Dongar means agricultural land on hill slopes.

The weaving and embroidery of Kapadaganda shawls are closely associated with the tradition, festival, and ethnicity of the Dongria Kondhs, however there is no historical evidence of the origin of Kapdaganda.

Ethnic  Significant

A raw material used is the off-white coarse cloth for kapdaganda produced from the Domb community, through bartering harvested crops. Needlework uses three Different color threads embroidered with motifs.  Susceptible. Each color carries an implication personified by socio-cultural values.

 The green symbolizes their fertile mountains and hills, prosperity, and the development of the community. yellow stands for peace, smile, togetherness, health, happiness, and auspiciousness.  While, red is the symbol of energy, blood, power, and revenge. It also symbolized the ritual of deities by offering the sacrifice of animals and birds.

In early days, the tribe people used to prepare colors from leaves and flowers and thread are soak in them, But now they are buying these threads from local market.

The motifs in the shawl are the reflection of the mountain’s importance by using different lines and triangular shapes.

Tradition and ritual

 The woman in Niyamgiri hills gathers in a group and engage in embroidering kapdaganda, the shawl that symbolize their cultural identity. primarily unmarried women weave the brilliant craftsmanship to gift it to their beloved ones like father or brother as the token of love.

The shawl not only differentiate them from others, but empowers them with sense of belonging. Also woman gets happiness while embroidering the shawl.

 Need of revival

To preserve kapdaganda shawls endeavorments are required to compass the rich heritage of tribes.  The weaving of the shawl could also provide a livelihood for the community.

The tribes fight for their embroidered kapdaganda shawl, which is being replicated by some designers for a few years. this is one of the reasons why researchers of tribal culture and tradition feel it’s high time that the state government should get a geographical indication GI tag for Kapdaganda shawl.

 Descrease interest and revival

 Nowadays young tribe girls are no more interested in wearing a ethical shawl which were once mandatory for them. The reason is the changing lifestyle of this hilly area.

 Nonetheless, the shawl has huge demand in national and international market. Few of the designers and traders who has created cheap replicas. 

To preserve this heritage the government releases  Funds to conduct workshops to promote kapdaganda where women were participated.

 It is high time that government support is required, but also they should receive livelihood by embroidering the shawl, so that the young generation which has forgotten the culture and tradition should be trained with these culture specific skill. 

Beside training  the government should come forward by producing the product directly.

This will be the opportunity for them. If the state gets GI tag for the shawl it will provide tribal weavers legal help in preventing duplication of their traditional designs.We are hopeful that this incredible art get it’s worth.

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