Unusual Art of Himachal Pradesh- Chamba Embroidery

The chamba rumal is an embroidered handicraft that was once promoted in the rule of chamba kingdom. It was a common item of gifts during marriages.

The chamba has been registered for protection under TRIPS agreement. It was also listed as “chamba Rumal” under the GI act 1999 of government of India. 

History and origin

The word Chamba rumal gets it name from chamba hill station in Himachal Pradesh. The chamba rural is originated and flourish during 18th and early 20th century, due to theme being similar to miniature painting, it also known as painting in embroidery. 

Chamba rumal embroidery were gifted in the wedding ceremonies and rituals during 17th century. Gradually local craft people, especially woman, began to spread and practice the art. 

Stitch techniques 

Inspiration for the chamba rumals is derived from the combination of miniature art with embroidery.

They are commonly in square or rectangle fabric size. The base of the art is intricate lines, drawn by miniature art experts. Once the lines are drawn, the embroidery is done accurately and finely by the women. While the fabric is used for the art is silk, Muslin, or khaddar. The drawing of fine charcoal is done on the outline of the drawing with beautiful colors the double satin forward and backup stitch and also both the sides of cloth are stitched so that the space on both sides is filled up design on each sides so equal and similar in content, while this technique is called dorukha ( two faced). 

The work is so fine that it gives the impration of miniature painting. The unique features are that there is no knot on any side of fabric, it is difficult to identify the real side.

Motifs and theme 

The stories of Ramayana and Mahabharata, the figures of Krishna, his Gopis, scenes from Bhagavad puranas, nature, the daily life of chamba, folk stories of the region, floral designs, etc are traditionally drawn in the rumal.

The most popular among are the Raosmandala ( a dance of Gopis and Krishna) followed by gaddi gaddan ( Shepherd man woman tribe of Himachal Pradesh).The themes like kaliya doman, Rukamani, Haran, Rajas, Ashta nayak  which depict the mood swings of the relationship between a man and female as part of this art form. Nature, faith and life carried through generations and traditions – thus it functions as a piece of literature. 

Present day scenario 

Post independence, freedom fighter and crafts revivalists, kamaladevi chattopadhyay, revived this art which was on the edge of death due to lack of funding.

The art faced a decline and the rumal become inferior in design and skill many rumal makers stop practising.

The efforts were made by kamaladevi chattoppadhyay, a force behind the revival of the chamba rumal and creator of the first training center of rumal, however in 1980-90s the art again face blow and chattopadyay ‘s center closed.

There were next to no center left for training of craft. 

Though, few designers step forward to revive the craft and today several young artists in chamba are starting to pursue chamba embroidery. These young artists comes up with new stories, ideas and motifs.

They also explores not just themes but new products like bookmarks, jewelry and more, thus expanding the scope of chamba embroidery to flourish. 

Berbagi :