Varied & Lavishingly Colorful Embroidery of Gujarat - Kathiawar Embroidery
It is offen observed that Gujarat has given India the greatest lineage in embroidery work and craft through its famous and protean kathiawar embroidery. Kathiawar embroidery is enrich with strong flok element along with colorful thread. Every piece has embroidered since the art is used to even décor home produce like toran, that graces the doorway welcome to the visitors, The embroidery item does not stop at the door only inside the house small square and rectangular piece of a hand embroidery designs enhances the outlook or furniture and hang on walls. Thus, Kathiawar embroidery plays an important part not only in apparel but also in every corner of their lifestyle.
History
There is a legend from mahabharat, When Lord Krishna killed the jarashand the evil king who have enslaved 1000 women hailing from all parts of India and Lord Krishna give them the freedom and they become his devotees and followed him to Dwarka. Each one has their own style of embroidery which all of it blend uniquely with the saurastra embroidery. Making it a splendid garden in which every type of needlework bloomed and add Prosperity to the land they adopted.
Another synthesis took place, the Mahajans, the merchants of the southern and western districts of kathiyawar, Create beautiful geometric embroidery with mirrors, Begin to employ Mochis to needlework for them with the influence of European and parsee style. The ruler workers themselves observes new designs with flawless status covering whole surface. In the 19th century mochi embroidered employed by the kathis brought a new dimension in embroidery.
Method of embroidery
The embroidery designs are hand drawn with silk heer work on cotton and silk fabric mostly. Now their are other fabrics canvas for embroidery. The embroidery is done in long stitches and to give glitter effects mirror work is done on it.
The combination of Ari work and chain stitch with kathiyawar work creates new range of designs. The base material bears a strong resemblance to the Bagh and phulkari of Punjab.
Square is divided into two parts creating the four triangular at the apex of the triangle placed the mirror. In each triangular horizontal and vertical long stitch is done with the alternative triangle to create a light and shade effect.
Apart from the long stitch the chain stitch and patchwork are favorite. Whether the animals are real or mythological like gajasinha (half lion, half elephant), the kinnara(half fish, half elephant), And the humans or Gods shown in a scene in the embroidery, the movement with which each figure is infused is an excellent feature of Kathiawar embroidery.
Thus, the Kathiawar embroidery consists of the lavish application of mirror work along with, chain stitch, darning stitch, herringbone Stitch, an interlacing stitch, Sindhi tropa, and applique work.
Types of Kathiawar embroidery
The two major styles of Kathiawar embroidery are fatiya work As of needlework and patchwork which is patterned clothes.
Maintenance
The fabric of kathiawar embroidery is particularly sturdy however, owing to the delicate nature of thread work, bead work and mirror work embroidered pieces can not be handwashed as they are liable to get damage. Dry cleaning is the best option to protect the garment from damage.
Present day scenario
Over the years this colorful craft has gained popularity. there is an innovation in Kathiawar embroidery along with new merchandise such as waistcoats, purses, bags and jhola, jooties, skirts, scarves, and belts. Home furniture and decors are also available in Kathiawar embroidery. Various fashion designers create Kathiawar embroidered inspiring clothes which has global demand.
Due to corona, the embroidery faces great setbacks, the customer’s purchasing power decreased, which leads to the decline of the market for Kathiawar embroidery products and they are in not-so-good condition. But as there is relief in the pandemic, the market is slowly getting normal.
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