Simple yet Radical silk saree - Uppada jamdhani style pattu

The feather like saree made with cotton and silk wrapped in a small beach town uppada in east Godavari district of Andra Pradesh. Pure lace with a nonmechanical method is how uppada is made.

Due to their lightweight and durability, there are worn throughout the year and also they are commonly worn. And special occasions like festivals and weddings a heavy uppada silk is used. 

History

 Usually, the jamdani technique commonly comes from Bengal. as the theories of the waving style can be traced back to the 17th century.  but digging up deep into information in the book handicraft textiles, there is mention of a swatch of jamdhani from Tanjor.

Path to decline of moguls the viewers will free to explore more as at the muggle time only your royal families can have the fabric.  Now the weavers migrate to various places and finally blend with other techniques and one among there is a uppada sarees.

 Jamdani style weaving was as old as 300 years.1972 is the year where uppada weavers were Recognized by Government of India with presidents aaward There is no much research or documentation done on the historical reference of this fabric.  

Difference between a uppada silk and kanchipuram silk.

Uppada silk is light weighted sari made with cotton wrap. While the kanchipuram silk is heavy weight sari made with pure silk wrap.The origin of uppada silk is Godavari District India while kanchipuram silk is kanchipuram region India.

Uppada fabric is handwoven while Kanchipuram uses handloom technique. Uppada is made with silver and zari threads while kanchipuram is made with mulberry silk thread and zari.

The time period taken by uppada saree for two to three weavers were 10-60 days, while Kanchipuram silktakes a shorter period of about one weak.

Making process

The padmasalis is the sole community who are engage in weaving uppada. From loom are used to weave the fabric. None of the weavers are trained but they received the skill through generation to generation. These fabric are soft, comfortable and elegant to wear and it is suitable for all type of climate.

The fabric is defined by the length and breath count of the threads used. Which defines the softness of the fabric is 100(length)- 120(breath) count of warp and wept is used. The pure silk and cotton thread is used in the saree. Two weavers with single loom weaves the delicate and exquisite designs on the fabric. The weavers also uses pure lace as well as silver zari dipped in melted gold.

After the yarn weaving the dying process is done. Firstly, the yarn is washed and then scooped in the desired color with boiling it in the boiler and then it is washed dried and starched. Generally, it takes 2-4 weeks for the creation of single saree. The reverse side of sarees motifs is as excellent and finished as front, this feature is the identitMaintance sarees.

Maintenance

For the first time clean recommendation is dry cleaning. Afterwards, mild detergent hand wash will work. One more thing to keep in, is to never dry your uppada pattu in direct sunlight.

Revival

The person who is solely responsible for the reintroducing the uppada fabric to the world is Mr. Ghanshyam Sarode, a textile designer.

In the world over, he has been known as Indian ethnic fashion revivalist. He rejuvenation the Indian handloom in contemporary fashion.

In his bag of fashion there is an uppada pattu for everyone, every age group and ever fresh design with tag line “simple yet Radical”.

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