Legacy of handiwork from the white desert- Dhabla shawls

Dhabla shawls are basic requirement in the life of white Rann of Kutch. Popular dhabla or dhablo art has developed throughout time as a result of cultural influence. The dhabla was historically constructed of single or double ply wool which makes it heavier. The basic features of dhabla is the sheep wool white surface with earned extra weft motifs in different shades and hues.

With the passage of time dhabla a traditional art has undergone a number of changes.

History

The community from Rajasthan called Meghwals in past and at present vankar cast weaves dhabla. According to presumption the Maghwal community was devoted followers of Saint Shri Ram Dev Pirji, who once visited kutch and Meghwals migration with religion and trade. They soon understood the need of weavers community in the region.

The Rabari and Ahir community were the first to settle over a period, the Vanker community settled down after them.

The Rabari women used to rear the wool from local sheep and spun wool. The Rabari began to offer hand-spun wool to the weavers spun shawls and blankets for them.

Making process

Firstly, the raw wool or cotton fibers are pinned on the traditional wooden wheel or charkha to make yarn.

Traditional charkha is optional as nowadays modern technique is used. Women and the younger generation take an active part in spinning.

Pomegranate peels, onions, leaves, kesuda na phool, and other natural products are used to dye colors. The yarn is sun-dried after dyeing it, and the yarn for the weft (bano) is filled in bobbins using charkha.

The yarn is put on wrap(tano) on the loom. The weavers sit on the ground level having their feet below the loom. Thus it is called a pit loom and the duration of making a dhabla depends on the design in it, it may take from 2 days to 2 months also their price range from 500 Rs.to 15000 Rs.

Motifs

The design in the dhabla has conventional ancestral patterns based on the daily life of the weavers.

Only geometrical patterns with points can be created while curvilinear patterns cannot be created. Now, overall jaal and patterning uses the same traditional geometrical motifs and also strips are prevalent.

Scenario

There has been many changes and innovations advancements with time.  The waivers uses Pit loom before 2001 earthquake, and frame loom have replaced it. Fly shuttles were used instead of hand shuttle. Weaving uses less time to complete the dhablo.

The number of governments, none governments, and designers are behind this craft revival. The final result the weavers have expanded their product range with the expansion of shawls and blankets to handbags and jootis.

The elaborate pattern can be seen with wide  range of colors. Nowadays and the embroidery embellishment with boarder acquired new dimension.

The weavers currently visit most of the fairs and these provide them to increase the customers. With the help of organizations the dhabla is flourishing day by day and although the weavers incurred huge losses, but in the long run the art may notice a boost.

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