Needlework Primarily on Eri Silk-- Khneng Embroidery

Khneng embroidery, traditionally done on eri silk, is an art form unique to Mustoh and the Shella region, Cherrapunjee, Meghalaya.

The embroidery is traditionally done on an eri silk shawl, adding attraction and economic value through intricate designs applied as a border. The patterns are unique and are used to embellish the traditional red-and-yellow square chequered fabric.

This embroidery technique is an expression of local cultural identity, and an important physical illustration of historic trading routes in the state of Meghalaya. The eri base cloth has traditionally been woven in Ri-Bhoi and sold to embroiderers in Mustoh through traders moving between the two districts.

History 

The Source of the word, Khneng locally known khasi means border. We have no clear history of the origin of Khneng art, but traces can be found date back to around 200 years ago surprisingly, at the inspiration of the embroidery came from an insect, locally called ktiar, which is like centipede. 

It is believed, that Khneng embroidery came into being from a lady who upon visiting the curious sound of insect, was so enchanted by that tiny creature of mother nature that she set about carving its form onto her Eri silk wrap around. 

This form of embroidery have been practiced for some two centuries now and continue to command awe even it is a dying art.

Technique

The process of Khneng embroidery is time-consuming. The thread used for embroidery is mainly woolen and the color is mostly black. The artist creates a single line of thick and thin yarn that is hand-stitched horizontally. The method of stitching in a craft is a simple running stitch on Eri silk.

It is stitched entirely by needles and the process depends on the thread count to produce even size motifs. As time progressed and in keeping up the market, the artisan introduce a variety of other synthetic colored yarns like embroidery thread.

Recent status

For cultural stability, it is crucial to promote handicrafts, especially for those who are at risk of extinction, and one of them is Khneng embroidery. Government schemes and NGOs, designers, and business owners can influence a huge role in increasing awareness and exploring Khneng.

Due to intricate patterns and lengthy progress, the demand has slowly decreased and there hasn’t been much of a market for the skill.

Revival

As the Meghalayan government acknowledge the unique art as well the only known form of embroidery in the state. The government expressed its gratitude to NESFAS for assisting to revive khneng. 

The department of Arts and Culture and Textiles in collaboration with NESFAS, conclude the khneng embroidery completion on the occasion of national handloom day at mustoh village.

The next step of collaboration is a project focused on capacity building of the potential local weavers and embroiderers. This is to increase the strength of artisans, the supply and value chain, and to keep the art form alive. The department of textile is actively working on a GI tag for Khneng embroidery.

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