The cloth of Rani-Rani phee
Rani Phee means ‘The cloth of Rani'. The Saree is vital part of every meitei woman wardrobe. ‘Rani Phee' is named after the pioneer of these saris, Chungkham Rani, the Saree motifs are popular and are native to Manipur state.
History and origin
The Manipuri handloom silk sarees rose to fame from the village of Morirang located in the Bishnupur district of Manipur. The mythical ‘Khamba’ of the ‘Morirang Kanglerio’ epic has a link with this village. As per the manuscript, Manipuri silk weaving was done to as a token of respect towards the royal family of Manipur, the Metei rulers. From there onwards, Manipuri cotton and silk sarees came into existence.
Manufacturing process
The magic of a spider’s web is said to have inspired weaving in Manipur. The Meitei community believes that Leimaren - the goddess of wealth and prosperity - entrusted weaving to women to ensure the well-being of the society. There is one common thread that unites them in tradition all across the land - Manipuri women are expert weavers.
Among the Meitei community who inhabit the Imphal Valley, almost every step that goes into the creation of silk garments is done by artisans working from their homes. To produce one Rani Phi, a weaver requires around 40 – 50 grams of silk which is the yield from around 50 silkworm cocoons.Depending on the intricacy of the pattern, they will then work an average of one week to complete a sari.
Chungkham Rani, a weaver, designer and entrepreneur who lives in Wangkhei, is credited with pioneering the Rani Phi sari. She lost her husband at the tender age of 21. Dismissing everyone’s advice to re-marry, Rani returned to her maternal house and instead wove all her shattered dreams into the clothes she produced on her loom, with magical colors and skillful designs.
Features
The traditional look and golden work on the saree looks astonishing. These sarees will not have usual motifs of bold prints, but you can usually observe block prints and stripes.
Manipuri Silk Sarees are mostly colourful. Bright and flat colors are used often in these sarees. Red Manipuri silk saree look stunning when paired with ornaments.
Present day scenario
Manipuri Silk Fabric has been registered under the Geographical Indication of TRIPS (Trade Related Intellectual Property Rights) agreement for protection.
The Manipuri Sarees are one of the most comfortable to wear sarees around the globe. Due to its fashionable looks with a twist of the Manipuri culture, these sarees stand out. It is a great choice for festivities and special occasions.
There is decline in demand, due to time consuming making process and increase in alternative for other jobs which gives guarantee of fixed income. The handloom should be protected.
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