One of the dying art-- Aughi Embroidery

Aughi embroidery is a exercise using gold and silver thread embroidery on leather. This style of embroidery first develop during the mughal period and has since declined. In the previous years, this form of embroidery was commonly used by the wealthy and royal more likely on the footwear. 

What is the background of the Aughi embroidery? 

The origin of Aughi embroidery is in Lucknow, utter Pradesh. It is famous for the footwear famously least four varieties of Persian footwear during the mughal period. Mojaris that usually wear by Indians is the upgraded from the Persian footwear. 

Pure form of gold and silver thread in the creation of the embroidery as it is commonly wear by royal people. Aughi is also done on velvet covered leather jooties beside directly on leather. 

What is the making process of the Aughi embroidery? 

Aughi embroidery is workout directly on to the leather,  unlike applique form of embroidery. It is one among the arduous form of embroidery which is totally handmade. Fine threads are used to make delicate and intricate motifs on the leather. The needle should be thick and strong enough to penetrate through leather, though the leather is soft when embroider and it stiffened after making jooties using natural substance. 

What is the style and variety of Aughi embroidery? 

The motifs that were worked onto the leather shows the range of Aughi embroidery work. The most common motifs were buds and leafs interlocks within intricate wines. Another common motifs is a small coin and sometimes it have bead or mirrors on it. 

This embroidery is meant for royalty thus it was exclusive. It would often cover the entire shoe or leather wallet. However, ever since the art became commercialized and available to the larger population. The items with minimalistic embroidery are also available. The cost of the items depends on the metallic thread used and the extent of embroidery on the item add to the price of the item.

In which occasions the Aughi embroidered items should be wear? 

Well, for the kings and queens the items can be wear daily basis. While for royal people wear more often in festive occasions and because of the exclusivity can be worn by commoners only during festive and grand occasions. It is well suited for the groom’s jooties as gold and silver in itself is very regal,  add to that richness of work made the item become s perfectly suited.

How we can maintain such exclusive work? 

In the olden times, velvet clothes that were tightly wrapped to protect the leather footwear with embroidery. This rule of handling the item very carefully still holds true. Leather especially, should be kept away from water. In case the leather is too tight on the feet,  oil can be applied on the surface using cotton piece to loosen it.

What is the present day scenario and global influence? 

Aughi as art form has nearly extinct. Anytime that are available are either considered collectable or are custom made pieces for highly selective countable. The craftman with the knowledge of Aughi of the Aughi embroidery are able very few and practioner few still. 

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