Assam one of the costliest and finest silk-muga silk

Origin and history 

As the name suggests muga silk is a type of silk, geographically metadata to the state of Assam in India.  The silk is known for its extreme durability and has a natural yellowish -golden tint with a shimmering, glossy texture.  It was previously reserved for the use of the royally.

In the Bhramaputra valley the larvae of Assam silkmoth feed on aromatic som and sula leaves which creates this unique silk. The lust of the silk increases by every wash or may be hand wash. You can also dyed the fabric after bleaching it.  The traditional use of muga silk is to make mekhalas and chadors. Nowadays the fabric is used in lengha, Saree, dresses, shirts and western clothes too. 

Sualkuchi silk is the one of the type of muga silk, is said to have been established in the 11th century by King Dhama Pala that ruled western Assam from 900 AD to about 1100 AD who is from the Pala dynasty. 

Fabrication process 

A silk farmer needs to access at least an acre of land just to cultivate about 400gms of muga silk at once. Where as 1000 cocoons can generate about 125gms of silk which is enough for the single Saree,  while the time taken for the muga silk for weaving a Saree is roughly 2 months and 10 days are just to rearing the silkworm to obtain the silk

About the fabric 

Additional colors are add via embroidery and zari work to make the product more attractive but the classy bright golden color is more in demand. 

The traditional motifs are used on the muga fabric includes jappi – the Assam cap, miri gos butta – a pattern of minature  tree motifs and kabutar- pigeon. These motifs are always geometrical in shape and have changed over the years.  Puri Zari  work is also found on the fabric giving it a very royal, classy feel. 

Muga silk fabric improve the quality with every wash, this makes the fabric last for life time. This is the reason why muga silk is one of the costliest silks in the world. The traditional dress of Assamese women mekhela chaise is one of the desired piece of ever Assamese women. 

Types 

Mekhela chadors, a two-piece saree and the traditional outfit of Assamese women, often worn during weddings, and the five-yard saree are the biggest varieties of this fabric. You also get the silk in “reeha”, which is a piece of fabric that is worn on special occasions like pujas, weddings and festivals. You also see the Muga silk used in making shawls and dress material.

Current state of the art

Muga silk has the Geographical Indication status, which helps in ensuring authentic products and controlling quality in the market. In the last year alone, India produced 158 tonnes of Muga silk, out of which 136 tonnes was produced in Assam. India’s totally output that very year was 28,708 tonnes.

Muga silk remains a classic item that every woman desires to own, however its traditional outlook, and non-versatility (it hasn’t really evolved much beyond the traditional Mekhela chadors), makes the demand a little niche.

Nevertheless, the fabric does have a global connect especially in Japan where designers are using it to make kimonos and other traditional Japanese dresses.

Cost of the fabric 

Muga silk is one of the highest qualities of silk and its ability to retain the original golden glow, makes the cost worthwhile. An original piece of work can cost you anywhere between Rs.10,000 to Rs.1,50,000.

Authenticity of the fabric 

The only method to identify a Muga silk from other natural silk is by using a certain kind of microscope. However, the strict quality check at the time of production and the GI status ensures that you only hold an original product in your hand. An alarm bell could be the cost – if it’s less than Rs.10,000 or if the shopkeeper is willing to sell it at a discount, you might be buying a fake product.

Care guide 

Dry cleaning is the most preferred method of maintaining a Muga silk saree. However, if you do have to wash the saree at home, avoid using soap during the first three washes. A rinse in cold water is more than enough. It is advisable to store the saree separately in a plastic or saree bag.

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