Unique style of Oily dye - The Indian telia rumal

The  history of this fabric goes back to the 19th century in a place called Chirala, in coastal Andhra Pradesh. ‘Telia’ means oil, and 'Rumal' means handkerchief. Telia Rumal has been the mainstay of Ikat in Andhra. Having originated in Chirala, the skills later spread to Nalgonda district. 

Chirala’s proximity to the sea enabled exports to Africa and Arabia, where it was used to make keffiyehs and turbans. The Telia Rumal, meant for the Middle-Eastern market, was worn primarily around the neck for its 'tel' (oil), to keep dryness at bay.

Urbanisation and globalisation of consumer tastes have not robbed telia rumal of their place in India's cultural and social life. This fabric was a hot seller in Andhra Pradesh for about 20-25 years. At that time, the designs used to be simple stars and dots representations. But when this fabric came to the Telangana region, the design underwent dramatic changes. Such was their skill, the dyers/weavers could make any design they wished for on the fabric.

The modern evolution in Pochampalli, Puttapaka and other villages of Nalgonda District indicates rationalisation that began with change in dyeing material. The old Alizarin dyeing was replaced by synthetic dyes. This led to decrease in dyeing time so results were quicker and made better economic sense. Though it lost its cooling properties, yet colours are fast. Currently, while the Telia weave is mostly sold as saris, dupattas and stoles too are becoming popular. They’re also being made into table covers or wall hangings. The Telia fabric lends itself well to what is called fusion wear.

Thankfully, a number of individuals and organizations are now rooting for the Telia Rumal. Microsoft, for instance, is planning to feature the Telia Rumal in a coffee-table book on the dying art forms. Today, the telia rumal has finally found a new and befitting avatar in the form of sarees and dupattas. A distinctive addition to anybody's wardrobe with its striking red borders, and geometric patterns.

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